8 Since they tend to have a thin consistency and are pH dependent, you should try to use them early on in your routine, ideally right after cleansing. L-AA Serums - Water Based - These are pH dependent products that work best at a pH <3.5. How you use vitamin C is totally dependent on the product! There are many different types of vitamin C and many different formulations, but a general guideline for routine order looks like: There are many different types of vitamin C - too many to list here! Many of them don't have a lot of research backing them up, but you can learn more about the different forms of vitamin C in the overviews below :) How to use That said, MAP is a stable derivative of vitamin C that works best at a pretty neutral pH (5.5 - 8), 5 making it a good choice for sensitive skin. While there have been some in vitro studies suggesting it may be a good treatment for hyperpigmentation, 13 there aren’t many solid clinical trials for MAP. Since SAP works best at a relatively neutral pH, 12 this would be a good option for sensitive skin! Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) It can start having a noticeable impact on acne after 2-3 months. SAP is a stable form of vitamin C and is an effective acne treatment. If you have sensitive skin, you may prefer to use a different form of vitamin C. While L-AA is likely your best bet if you're looking for a vitamin C product with effective antioxidant benefits, 7, 8 it may be irritating for some due to its relatively low pH. Using products that also include ferulic acid 6 Using anhydrous (water-free) formulas (although there isn't much research available on how well they penetrate the skin) Storing your L-AA product in a cool, dark place Using products with airless pump packaging and opaque containers (you can also wrap aluminum foil around your container to block sunlight) 5 Fortunately there are ways to improve the stability of L-AA products including: L-AA is a fantastic choice for vitamin C, but it can be a rather unstable ingredient that’s prone to breaking down when exposed to heat, light, and air. This is when you should generally expect to see a positive difference in your skin - which isn't the same as your skin being exactly as you want it to be! It takes time for products to work. How long it takes L-AA to start having a noticeable impact depends on the concentration, overall formula of the product, what skin concern(s) you’re trying to tackle, and of course, your skin!īelow are some rough time frames for common skin concerns. Lightens dark spots (hyperpigmentation) 1 There are quite a few types of vitamin C with different pros and cons for each - we’ve covered some of the most common types below! Effects Ascorbic Acid (L-AA) Vitamin C is an antioxidant that may help with various skin concerns.
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